CHARLESTON CHARMS:
THE LOWDOWN ON THE LOWCOUNTRY
It's easy to understand this woman's complacence, because few places on earth can rival Charleston's blend of grace, beauty, history, and tradition. Charleston has a way of charming visitors (and residents) so that they never want to leave.
Originally published in New York Post
Charleston is an "old world" city, lovingly preserved and unique among American destinations. In this grand old city, church bells still toll the hours and the rhythmic sounds of horse-drawn carriages join in the melody. You can see the antebellum homes and plantations that echo a lifestyle of the old south and you can feel and smell the salty sea breeze blowing into the city from the ‘lowcountry’ and resort islands surrounding the city. Then you can taste the delicious fresh seafood at one of many renowned Charleston restaurants.
Many visitors to Charleston become so entranced with the downtown area that they fail to venture out into the quiet lowcountry area of low-lying coastal plains, sandy shorelines, salt marshes, rivers, creeks, and estuaries encircling Charleston. In many ways, this land is what made Charleston possible, thanks to the rice plantations (wealthy plantation owners built the ‘city’ homes now popular with restorers and sightseers).
Charleston’s lowcountry is ideal for a wide variety of visitor interests. The possibilities include: paddling a kayak on an ecotourism trip, visiting (or even spending the night at) former rice plantations; stopping by a current tea plantation--the only one in the U.S.; buying native sweetgrass baskets from women along the side of the road; visiting the new South Carolina Aquarium; or simply savoring traditional low-country cooking at one of many local restaurants.
Perhaps the best way to get the lowdown on the lowcountry is with a guided kayak trip or small tour boat. Many companies offer outings, including: Coastal Expeditions; Cap’n Richard’s ACE Basin Nature Tours; and a wide variety of offerings from out on the Isle of Palms Wild Dunes Resort (a beach resort that’s also a great base for lowcountry touring). For these tours, experienced guides provide great background on the history and ecology of the lowcountry. If you want to experience the lowcountry without floating on it, many area parks provide paths, boardwalks, and more (see ‘Fast Facts’ for suggestions).
Out Ashley River Road, three colonial plantations interpret more than 250 years of rural life in the lowcountry. Drayton Hall is preserved in almost original condition after more than 2 1/2 centuries and visitors will enjoy learning how seven generations of Draytons lived and worked at this home and on the surrounding land.
Magnolia Plantation and Gardens features some of America's oldest and most colorful landscaped gardens. Built in the 1670s, it has been the continuous residence for ten generations of Drayton descendants. Also located at Magnolia, Audubon Swamp Garden is the south's newest garden and encompasses a unique 60-acre blackwater cypress swamp, crossed by bridges, dikes, and boardwalks.
Middleton Place offers an 18th century rice plantation. Visitors can also explore the stableyards, complete with animals and period workers. For those who want a true lowcountry experience, you can even spend the night at the convenient, comfortable, and architecturally unique Middleton Inn.
Just 15 miles south of Charleston on Wadmalaw Island, Charleston Tea Plantation boasts the only tea grown in America. The tea is called American Classic and its smooth fresh taste has won it White House acclaim. The tea bushes of the plantation are directly descended from the original plants brought to the colonies from India, China, and Ceylon more than 100 years ago.
On the other side of Charleston, up US 17 North, Boone Hall Plantation begins with a 3/4-mile drive lined with massive Spanish oaks planted in 1743 by Captain Thomas Boone. Original plantation buildings include nine 18th century slave cabins, built with bricks made on the plantation, and a gin house, used for processing cotton. All along US 17 North, you’ll also find local women weaving (and selling) the famed sweetgrass baskets, making for an ideal lowcountry memento (be sure to ask the women about lowcountry African American history and ‘Gullah’ culture).
If you’re trip to Charleston is short and you don’t have time for these nearby excursions, the lowcountry can now be seen right downtown. Just opened in mid-May, the South Carolina Aquarium sits right on the Charleston Harbor and takes visitors on a trip from the state’s mountains to the Atlantic Ocean (including several areas covering the coastal plains, with birds, fish, tropical plants, and more).
Lowcountry cooking, which features local seafood, game products, rice, grits, and other southern standards, should be a part of any Charleston visit. Top choices for lowcountry cuisine include: any of the seafood restaurants along Shem Creek in Mount Pleasant; Louis’s; Hominy Grill; Magnolia’s; Anson; and Seewee Restaurant up on U.S. 17 North.
From former rice plantations to true grits, it’s easy to see why the lowdown on Charleston’s lowcountry is colorful and charming. Once you visit, you'll understand why residents (and visitors) never want to leave. They, too, know they're already there.
FAST FACTS
*Contact the Charleston Area Convention & Visitors Bureau at (800) 868-8118 or visit their website (www.charlestoncvb.com).
*Direct service from the New York area to Charleston is available with Continental (Newark); Delta (Laguardia); and USAirways (Laguardia). USAirways offers the most frequent service to the city, while Midway, Trans World Express, and United Express also offer connecting service.
*Ecotourism excursions: Coastal Expeditions (843/884-7684); Cap’n Richard’s ACE Basin Nature Tour (843/766-9664); and a wide variety of offerings from out on the Isle of Palms Wild Dunes Resort (800/845-8880).
*Parks: Audubon Sanctuary & Center (843/462-2150); Francis Marion National Forest (843/336-3248); Old Santee Canal State Park (843/899-5200); Palmetto Islands County Park (843/884-0832); and Sewee Visitor & Environmental Education Center (843/928-3368).
*Plantations: Drayton Hall (843/769-2600); Magnolia Plantation and Gardens (800/367-3517); Middleton Place (800/782-3608); Charleston Tea Plantation (843/559.0308); Boone Hall Plantation (843/884-4371).
*Shopping for sweetgrass baskets: Along with the women out on U.S. 17 North, sweetgrass baskets can be found along the streets of downtown Charleston and in the Old City Market.
*South Carolina Aquarium: Corner of Calhoun and Charleston, Charleston Harbor (888/343-9899).
*Lowcountry cuisine: any of the seafood restaurants along Shem Creek in Mount Pleasant; Louis’s (843/853-2350); Hominy Grill (843/937-0930); Magnolia’s (843/577-7771); Anson (843/577-0551); and Seewee Restaurant (843/928-3609).